he history of Domaine Amiot-Servelle in Chambolle-Musigny dates back to 1920. Today this is the only domaine in the village which is certified organic. But this is not a new philosophy here. Already the previous generation recognized the importance of cutting down on the chemicals.
– My father-in-law never used any herbicides. So during the first ten years I was using the hoe, Christian Amiot says with a weary smile. Today we are ploughing, which is much easier.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle has a strong focus on Chambolle-Musigny. Out of the eight hectares they farm today seven are in Chambolle-Musigny. The remaining hectare is split between village appellation Morey-Saint-Denis and the two grand crus Charmes-Chambertin and Clos Saint-Denis. There are also some bought-in grapes from Puligny-Montrachet.
– We went organic in 2003, continues Christian Amiot. In 2005 we took the first steps towards certification and in 2008 we received it.
He arrived at the domaine in 1980, when it was still called Domaine Servelle-Tachot, to work with his father-in-law, Jean Servelle. When Jean Servelle passed away in 1989 Christian Amiot took on the domaine, covering 6.3 hectares at the time. Before Jean Servelle, his father-in-law, Clément Tachot, had created the domaine back in 1920.
In 2011 Prune Amiot, a trained oenologue and daughter to Christian Amiot and Elisabeth Servelle, arrived at Domaine Amiot-Servelle.
– Before that I had done two years in the Côte-Rotie, she explains. I spent 2007 consulting and in 2008, 2009 and 2010 I was in charge of vinifications at Maison Jaffelin in Beaune. Being 27 years old it was a great opportunity, to have ten red wines and seven white to vinify all on your own.
– Yes, says Christian Amiot, experiences like that give you a lot of confidence.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle produces generic Bourgogne in both red and white. The vines are located just across the route nationale from Chambolle-Musigny, in the lieux-dits of Au Pelson, Plan de Gilbert, Es Rues and Les Graviers. There are village appellation wines from both Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny.
– We have had the Morey-Saint-Denis vines since 2010, says Christian Amiot. They come from my family. Previously it was my two brothers – Domaine Pierre Amiot in Morey-Saint-Denis – who had them. The main part of the vines is in Clos Solon and there is a small parcel in Les Brâs on the other side of the route nationale. It is not the best location, but it produces a delicate wine.
For the village Chambolle-Musigny a large part of the vines are located in Les Bas Doix, a lieu-dit just below the Chambolle-Musigny premier crus Les Amoureuses and Les Hauts Doix.
– In the past I used to make a separate Les Bas Doix bottling, explains Christian Amiot. Since I have almost one hectare in Les Bas Doix it was possible to do it. Les Bas Doix produces a wine that is softer and more mineral.
On the next level, premier cru level, Domaine Amiot-Servelle produces five different wines, all from Chambolle-Musigny – Les Feusselottes, Les Plantes, Les Charmes, Derrière la Grange and Les Amoureuses.
– Les Feusselottes is a premier cru that never has a big structure, says Christian Amiot.
– It is more about the fruit, says Prune Amiot. Les Feusselottes is the one of our premier crus that is the quickest to open up. It is the one that is the most accessible in its youth.
You’ll find Les Feusselottes just south of the village, next to the cemetery. When you arrive from Vougeot you have the cemetery on your right. The Domaine Amiot-Servelle vines are just before that.
– As the name suggests Les Feusselottes is a ”hole”, a depression making it a bit lower than the surrounding vineyards, says Christian Amiot. The soil is deeper here, thanks to its location right where the valley opens up.
– It is also our smallest cuvée, says Prune Amiot. The 2012 only produced a barrel and a quarter.
Christian Amiot describes Les Charmes as being more southern Chambolle in style. Mineral and with more structure Les Feusselottes.
Derrière la Grange is the second smallest premier cru in Chambolle-Musigny, located on your left just as you enter the village from the Morey-Saint-Denis side. Only Les Groseilles is smaller. Out of the 0.72 hectare that Derrière la Grange covers Domaine Amiot-Servelle owns 0.36.
– In terms of style Derrière la Grange is closer to Bonnes Mares, says Christian Amiot. While Les Charmes is right where the valley opens up into the plain, Derrière la Grange is right up there in the middle of the slope. Like Les Amoureuses. Above Derrière la Grange you have Les Fuées, and between the two you have a fault line, right where the road and the wall are. Derrière la Grange is quite stony, with reddish soil. Generally it is a bit different from the other premier crus. A bit less of the minerality you have in Les Amoureuses and Les Charmes. A bit more heavy.
Domaine Amiot-Servelle owns about eight per cent of Les Amoureuses, 0.45 hectare.
– In the oldest part of our parcel in Les Amoureuses the vines are 45 years old, says Christian Amiot. Since the soil is not very deep it is difficult to get old vines in Les Amoureuses. They get very fragile.
© 2014 Ola Bergman